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Chris McKnight
Kentucky,
USA

Posts: 1
Daytona 955i (99-01)


icon07 Nov 2002 16:41
Hey guys and gals....I have got a 2000 955i daytona that I bought wrecked and restored myself, it was mostly cosmetic damage. I added a yoshi pipe and had it repainted, she looks great but after about 3 weeks of riding she has started overheating. I checked the coolant the first time and it was low. I filled her up and it ran fine for a week or so. Now it has started up again, only when it does I have antifreeze pouring out of the overflow.....Any ideas or suggestions
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Jones'y ( Mike Jones )
London,
United Kingdom

Posts: 69
Speed Triple 955i (99-01)


icon07 Nov 2002 17:31
Overheating

Yeah had the same problem with mine after a hard ride, or just a normal ride in hot weather.

Change the radiator cap under the tank as this is also a pressure valve and gets gummed up with crap and cannot open, it cured my problem all for the sum £10.00

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Sean O'Connor
North Yorkshire,
United Kingdom

Posts: 369
Daytona T595


icon07 Nov 2002 19:43
my 595 used to overheat untill i moved the squashed coolant pipe on the expansion bottle from under the frame
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chris holland
margate,
United Kingdom

Posts: 60
Daytona T595


icon08 Nov 2002 16:18
Chris,

I had been having the same problem with my 98 daytona. I cured it by flushing out the whole of the cooling system, I would try that first and then go for the cap if it does'nt work as this appears to be another problem area that a lot of riders are having
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Paul Robinson
Stevenage,
United Kingdom

Posts: 14
Daytona 955i (99-01)


icon02 Jul 2007 13:19
Hi guys,

Got a really dumb question here regarding overheating...

My 2000 955i has been fine, normally runs at just over 1/2 on the temp gauge. However, this morning when I came into work (only 13 miles) the gauge went way way up into the red while doing 90mph on the motorway. I pulled the clutch and killed the revs and coasted for a bit and it cooled a little, then got hot again when I started riding. I managed to limp into work. When I got here I checked the expansion bottle under the rear seat and it noly took about 1/2 a litre to top it up to 1/2 way (am I right in assuming you don't fill this to the top?).

Anyway the fan is cutting in so it's not that.

My dumb question is where is the main rad cap (the pressurized one)? The one in the back is just a little rubber cap so assume there is another one?

Any other things to check?

Cheers,
Paul
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Slee
Doncaster,
United Kingdom

Posts: 40
Daytona 955i (04-06)


icon02 Jul 2007 14:08
When i filled my expansion tank (the plastic reservoir under seat) with coolant i overfilled the MAX line. On the 05 version this is way down at the bottom of the reservoir only visible when you take off the front seat. The result was that when the bike got hot (and the coolant expanded), the coolant level increased in the expansion tank and gushed out of the overflow pipe...

simple mistake to make... corrected by filling the reservoir to the specified level!
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Paul Robinson
Stevenage,
United Kingdom

Posts: 14
Daytona 955i (99-01)


icon02 Jul 2007 15:25
Will the expansion bottle fill the radiator if it's low? As I said above...my expansion bottle only took a little water so I don't think that's my overheating problem.

I should check the main rad cap I guess (if I knew where it was!!)
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X-Man
North Lincs,
United Kingdom

Posts: 25,204
Enthusiast


icon02 Jul 2007 18:38
Tis under the cowl on the front of the tank.
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Chris Line
Cowes,Isle of Wight.,
United Kingdom

Posts: 8,632
Speed Triple 955i (99-01)


icon02 Jul 2007 18:51
Correct X-Man, for the -01 models!

Not sure where it is on the newer models??? (Don't have one!)
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Paul Robinson
Stevenage,
United Kingdom

Posts: 14
Daytona 955i (99-01)


icon02 Jul 2007 19:54
Thanks guys. OK, problem solved.

The thermostat was stuck shut! I couldn't get one so I just took it out for now. Ran it up the road and it's cool (literally!). It's running just below 1/2 way up the gauge.

So...should I bother getting a replacement or do folks run them without a thermostat?

Any adverse effect if I leave it without one?
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rat
barna,
Spain

Posts: 349
Speed Triple 955i (99-01)


icon03 Jul 2007 02:21
Paul Robinson:
Any adverse effect if I leave it without one?


Your engine will take longer to get up to working temperature without one, as the cooling circuit will include the radiator even when cold. The t-stat holds the water in a smaller circuit around the engine until the water gets to a certain temp, then releases it to include the rad.

This will likely have a negative effect on fuel consumption as the ECU will be feeding extra fuel 'cos it thinks the engine's cold (choke).
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Chris Line
Cowes,Isle of Wight.,
United Kingdom

Posts: 8,632
Speed Triple 955i (99-01)


icon03 Jul 2007 03:06
If that is happening - long term it could wreck the bores!

Same as having an "Autochoke" stuck on - or only used for short distances!
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bradtx
Pearland, TX,
USA

Posts: 1,720
Daytona 955i (04-06)


icon03 Jul 2007 04:48
Paul, One of the duties of the thermostat is to govern the flow of coolant to a calculated rate. What this does is allow coolant to stay in the radiator and shed heat. In some engines increasing the flow of coolant can actually pit the coolant passages where they turn due to cavitation.

In race car engines where a thermostat is unimportant, there is a restricter, looks like a big washer installed. Should cause no problems in short term, but it's much better to have a thermostat.

Brad
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rat
barna,
Spain

Posts: 349
Speed Triple 955i (99-01)


icon03 Jul 2007 06:02
bradtx:
In some engines increasing the flow of coolant can actually pit the coolant passages where they turn due to cavitation.


Sure, but this is kinda irrelevant here. The only thing that can affect "the flow of coolant" is your water pump (well, outside a blown head gasket or similar). The t-stat, as I said, either increases or reduces the length of the water circuit at pre-set temperatures.

If the water's cold, it'll do a short trip around the motor. When the water temp hits the operating temp of the t-stat it'll open and pass water around the radiator for cooling. The t-stat will then stay open 'til the temp drops below its closing temp at which point it'll once again close and restrict the flow to around the motor water jacket.

The t-stat (as its name suggests) is purely* a thermal switch, and doesn't care about water pressure or flow. Removing the t-stat from the system will not affect water pressure, as the water pump will continue to spin until the specified pressure is attained.

Without a t-stat in the circuit, the pump will be simply be circulating cold water for longer.

* Well OK, it often also has a safety valve like a pressure cooker, but that's an emergency device designed to blow a hose instead of a head gasket, and is irrelevant to normal operation.
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Paul Robinson
Stevenage,
United Kingdom

Posts: 14
Daytona 955i (99-01)


icon03 Jul 2007 13:28
Thanks for all the advice guys, I'll get a new thermostat ordered and fit it asap!!!
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Ken Miller
Seattle,
USA

Posts: 273
Daytona 955i (02)


icon30 Jul 2007 05:36
Check to make sure the nylon elbow on the overflow bottle isn't cracked. Many Triumps models and years have had that problem. Replacements are available at any auto parts store.
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mambrake
New England,
USA

Posts: 9
Daytona T595


icon06 Sep 2016 01:51
Does anyone know of an alternative thermostat for 97 Daytona T595?? The dealers is expensive. My bike is overheating at idle. Fan turns on but it doesnt stop the needle for reaching red... I already pu $700 us on this bike
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Fret
The Aquaduct?,
United Kingdom

Posts: 64,007
Tiger Explorer


icon06 Sep 2016 13:04
T595's always run hot at idle.
The fan blades also melt, which doesn't help.
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mambrake
New England,
USA

Posts: 9
Daytona T595


icon08 Sep 2016 02:21
Alternative thermostat for 97 Triumph Daytona T595, Stant 35279 or stant 14279, Only $13 works great. Bike is not overheating anymore
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K-Mo
Bristol,
United Kingdom

Posts: 30
Sprint ST (99-01)


icon03 Oct 2017 19:05
Had the same problem - but I ignored the early signs, and carried on riding until the thermo would hit the top mark within 10 minutes of city riding. Takes 20 to get clear of the city... sorted it out in an hour. What a lazy basket I am. Did this:

Remove left side panel (cowl and belly pan stay in place).
Remove saddle and read left hand side panel.
Removed rad cap and thermostat bleed screw, removed drain plug and drained coolant - got some nasty brownish crap out, and less than I expected.
Removed rear reservoir, flushed it out.
Checked all of the pipes and the reservoir tubes - they weren't trapped or split.
Ran the engine for 30 secs with the caps and screws off.
Poured a litre or two of fresh coolant in until it ran clean from the bleed hole.
Refitted the bleed screw.
Refitted the reservoir and tubes.
Refilled the reservoir to the mid-point of the min-max marks.
Filled the system through the rad cap, with the thermostat bleed screw out, until nicely full.
Refitted the rad cap, refitted the thermostat bleed screw.
Ran the engine for two(ish) minutes, loosened the thermostat bleed screw to allow a quick dribble, tightened it again.
Refitted the bodywork.
Polished the bodywork with Pledge and a duster
Rode it around the usual overheating route - perfection, temp gauge hit the normal mark and stayed there.

There's a comment in one of the threads about checking the 'L' connector for the feed from the rear reservoir - mine had become pushed right in, only the white plastic body showing; my guess is that every time the system tried to take some fluid it took air, and ended up pressuring the radiator.

:drink: o'clock
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~EARL~
gods country wales,
United Kingdom

Posts: 86,261
Tiger 800XC


icon03 Oct 2017 19:36
Mine had cracked head gasket but most air locks and the above normally fix it
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K-Mo
Bristol,
United Kingdom

Posts: 30
Sprint ST (99-01)


icon04 Oct 2017 08:21
:drink::drink::drink:
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