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NextRSSPreviousTech Forums > Performance Tips & Tricks > preparing to race next year
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joao
Portugal,
Portugal

Posts: 94
Daytona T595


icon17 Dec 2015 14:52
Hello everyone.
Last year, I participated in the national championship where I was vice champion with a daytona t595.
In the last race the engine broke, it was necessary to replace the crankshaft and connecting rod ( cylinder nº 1).Nothing new!!!

This year I ran with a CBR 600f 1997 when I wine the champion with no trobbles at all.

Next year i'll back to my daytona and for now I have change some parts.

The sub frame was removed and i made one shorter and lighter.
The support of the front fairing is also manufactured on carbon fiber

Now I needed more advices to make my bike more competitive and reliable....

wich one? sssa or dssa?
more?
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Nice n Fat
Wilts, Berks & Hants,
United Kingdom

Bonneville (01-08)


icon17 Dec 2015 15:48
DSSA :thumbup:

Here's a bit of reading for you :tongueout::thumbup:

https://www.triumphtorque.com/messageboa...
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joao
Portugal,
Portugal

Posts: 94
Daytona T595


icon23 Dec 2015 09:22
it is possible to use the exhaust manifolds from a 955i on a t595?

when cornering to right side the exhaust touch on the track....
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X-Man
North Lincs,
United Kingdom

Posts: 25,175
Enthusiast


icon23 Dec 2015 11:17
Its possible but you may find the angles are different. The later 99 headers were modified for this problem and are better.
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beemerracer
Eindhoven,
Netherlands

Posts: 109
Enthusiast


icon26 Dec 2015 23:02
joao:
it is possible to use the exhaust manifolds from a 955i on a t595?

when cornering to right side the exhaust touch on the track....


I don't know how much modification's you did on the suspension.
Raising the front is a solution. I mean, putting the tubes as much down in the yokes as possible. Also as X-man said, the later model exhaust for this engine is much better. For relialebility I don't know much about this first model engine and the race class regulations your racing in. At least using a 15W50 oil will help.
More cornering feel is added by using LSL yokes with 30mm offset instead the Oem 35mm. Or even better 25mm, as the set I use. What N/mm spring do you use in the back? Installing a closed cartridge by Andreanni at the front makes a s!$% load of difference, but come's at a price.
Changing the SSSA by a DSSA gains a lot of kilo's. I have mine changed back to a SSSA from a 1050 as I missed the looks of it, but....it is much heavier:sad:
The heavilly modified DSSA is for sale, incl the 3 6" Fireblade rims and different sprockets. You are then able to run a 17t at the front without destroing the chainsupport.
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joao
Portugal,
Portugal

Posts: 94
Daytona T595


icon28 Dec 2015 14:42
can i remove the starter motor and the alternator or just the alternator?

i know it is very dificult to jump start my daytona but it seems a good way to lose some weight(around 5kg).
this kind of engine suport about 30 laps (traning, qualifying and race) using only the battery? (x-man what about?)

any one try it?

the roules for the next year arrive and it is not possible to swich from sssa to dssa. i'll try to lose some weight by machining it some where....

i found on the internet, one guy who says the problem in this engine are the rod bearings that rotate on it.

he says that increasing the angle where the rod bearings fit and using stiffer screws on the rods, that ceases the problem. any one heard about this?

his talking about this angles
/media/file/127546.aspx
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X-Man
North Lincs,
United Kingdom

Posts: 25,175
Enthusiast


icon28 Dec 2015 15:59
Nah, never bothered to run just battery without charging. TBH I weigh 17 stone so losing the odd kg from here and there would not really have made any appreciable difference.

I put the later engine in because it was allowed under the rules of the class I was racing in. Gained 13 rwhp overnight....
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beemerracer
Eindhoven,
Netherlands

Posts: 109
Enthusiast


icon28 Dec 2015 21:11
joao:
can i remove the starter motor and the alternator or just the alternator?

i know it is very dificult to jump start my daytona but it seems a good way to lose some weight(around 5kg).
this kind of engine suport about 30 laps (traning, qualifying and race) using only the battery? (x-man what about?)

any one try it?

the roules for the next year arrive and it is not possible to swich from sssa to dssa. i'll try to lose some weight by machining it some where....

i found on the internet, one guy who says the problem in this engine are the rod bearings that rotate on it.

he says that increasing the angle where the rod bearings fit and using stiffer screws on the rods, that ceases the problem. any one heard about this?

his talking about this angles
/media/file/127546.aspx


Question is: did you check the bearing play with plastigauge after the rebuild?
I rebuild the engine's always with the biggest bearing play (white bearings for the >2002 955 Daytona ) available and then use a 15W50 oil.
If you remove the alternator and starter you can take out the complete inner gears for it.
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