Hello all! Be gentle I'm a virgin at this forum lark. Just got a Daytona 955i CE 2002 and quite frankly its wet, it seems to hold back on revs and quick throttle actions seem to make it sluggish. Full throttle going through the gears seem to give me enough time to make a brew as the revs build. And it has a little quick flurry of revs high up 9000+ rpm ish. Now I know its not the quickest revving engine in the world and in a different state of tune from the 2002 955i S3 I had but my Striple would of murdered it up to 100mph (on a private road) Looking through the paper work its had a updated engine map and a 0mph issue. Currently got a aftermarket can fitted and I've removed the baffle but not sure if its mapped right for the can. but it still seems like there's something amiss even if its in standard tune with the can. I hope someone has some tips or ideas and you can understand all my rantings.....now secondly, are you all comfy? Think its a bit tappety too,or hopefully not cam chain,guide or tensioner noise it seems to be coming from the left of engine when riding, equal load revs and overrun. Coming from my Speedy I was ready for a great midrange and a cheeky top end but its all far too tame thats why I think Ive got problems. Thank you!!
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Hello again, I know the way to start is the tappets and or cam chain which doesn't really bother me as I class this as service and maintenance. I'm more worried about the power/power delivery or lack of it as all these issue's are big money electrical/ecu at a guess. Just wondered if anyone has any ideas or experience with the same or similar problems, before its the dreaded trip to the dealers.
shims poss will want to be done.. x man has loads of idears. which side of lincoln are you as i live in retford? has someone messed with sprockets front or rear?
Better acceleration drop the tooth on the front, fit the mm3 tune in it after that shy of trying it I can't comment my old t595 always made me smile when cracking the throttle
Hi guys thanks for reply's, I've only ridden it twice only had it for a few days. Sprockets are standard ratio, exhaust is clean i guess baffle is not sooty, apart from the tappety noise which needs doing. It just seems wet all through rev range especially big hand full at once not too bad if i feed it in. I know S3 and daytona are not light years apart,my S3 had tors high level carbon and a triumph map but don,t know which one as was set when i bought it. but was like an electric motor from about 2500rpm to limiter. The daytona i think has a standard map but an updated one with a crap baffled can. Its holding back or say if you had a flat spot you normally just have one this feels like its got 8 flat spots thru rev range. I'll get to dealers and see what map it has, get the noise addressed and take it from there. Thanks for the thoughts.
Cheers noggin but don't have lap top and its not coming up stairs lol and I feel its bigger than the wrong map its like its got 100 HP. And their a good bunch at my local dealer should plug it in for free and probably take it for a quick run while I make the brews. Here's hoping!
Quote: There shouldn't be much difference between an 02 S3 and an 03 Daytona.
There's about 30hp difference between the bikes, the S3 should have the initial jump but once it gets going the Daytona should just take off in comparison
wad955iCE: Cheers noggin but don't have lap top and its not coming up stairs lol
Yeah that could be an issue.
but it could be fun attempting it we've all seen bikes going up over and on unusual objects in trails bike competitions 2 wheels an engine and brakes are all you need
you don't think that the person that you got the bike from still has restriction plates on it. Just sayen. Yea ya I've reappeared. How you guys been doin over there.
Right all, this tune ecu lark if i get a cable and use of a laptop (or do they do a 20m cable?) How hard is it for a pc'er with limited skills to get it all down loaded and mapped? I'm ok with spanners but this electronic servicing is a little bit 21st century for me. I still use my mobile phone for phone calls and texts !! U get the idea! I've not seen the guys at my local dealer for a while and on my last visit I wasn't feeling 'em' and they only have t.o.r.s high/low level maps. My bikes got s!$% aftermarket can with short link,pipercross air filter and always drinks full fat petrol, so might need to try some custom maps me thinks?? I was going to start with tors low level map and see how i go. But first I have to sort this tuneecu job out.
Any thoughts,advice or piss taking will be appreciated.
Read the installation manual is all I can offer......... some people have had problems with the laptop automatically connecting to the net and installing too up to date drivers.
on an 02 there is only one map for TORs I thought, no difference between high or low level.
Cheers all, JP, I've checked all the boring stuff, airbox, loose headers and mid joints etc. just serviced oil,filters,plugs etc. No missing as far as I can tell so far. Only got through 2 tanks of fuel (thats about $1000 at our Gas prices JP!
Soapy, yes 955i CE, I'm going to start with 10181 map. Can, no sai and go from there. The map you runs sounds interesting,how do you ride?
wad955iCE: Cheers all, JP, I've checked all the boring stuff, airbox, loose headers and mid joints etc. just serviced oil,filters,plugs etc. No missing as far as I can tell so far. Only got through 2 tanks of fuel (thats about $1000 at our Gas prices JP!
Soapy, yes 955i CE, I'm going to start with 10181 map. Can, no sai and go from there. The map you runs sounds interesting,how do you ride?
illegally would be the conservative word. I scare the s!$% out of myself when I look at the speedo on this thing.
there is a maximum stock performance map on the tuneecu website you could try. I found it left a huge hole at 4k but that could be down to my can. worth a try - I reckon it was better in higher revs.
Hi, i have just bought myself my first Triumph and thought it was very rattly, especially after owning a rice burner for many years. I couldn't quite pinpoint the rattle on my engine but thought it was top end, shims or tensioner. Took it to Webbs Triumph in Lincoln (Very helpful) and their mechanic listened to it and said it was definately the tensioner and he'd done quite a number of these in his time. The tensioner just gets stuck and will not adjust in. The new tensioner worked a treat, it's an 'upgraded' unit but now costs £20 more than the original unit. The tensioner blades were ok and did not need replacing and my bike has done 27k. Not sure on the lack of power as this is my first experience of a fuel injected bike but i would advise going to Webbs and let them plug it into their computer, maybe it would show an error. As with modern cars, these bikes seem to have sensors everywhere, maybe one's not functioning correctly Might see you around
Stimo21: Hi, i have just bought myself my first Triumph and thought it was very rattly, especially after owning a rice burner for many years. I couldn't quite pinpoint the rattle on my engine but thought it was top end, shims or tensioner. Took it to Webbs Triumph in Lincoln (Very helpful) and their mechanic listened to it and said it was definately the tensioner and he'd done quite a number of these in his time. The tensioner just gets stuck and will not adjust in. The new tensioner worked a treat, it's an 'upgraded' unit but now costs £20 more than the original unit. The tensioner blades were ok and did not need replacing and my bike has done 27k. Not sure on the lack of power as this is my first experience of a fuel injected bike but i would advise going to Webbs and let them plug it into their computer, maybe it would show an error. As with modern cars, these bikes seem to have sensors everywhere, maybe one's not functioning correctly Might see you around
Thats interesting about the tensioner, T595 is also rattly but at only 18k and dont think its anything sinister. Shims will need to be checked but as my bike sat unused for nearly 2 years its possible the tensioner is stuck or possibly worn out.
Good to hear your tensioner has quietend things down but you're better off getting tuneecu on an old laptop rather than paying a dealer to check for fault codes.
HMMM, The cam chain tensioner, is the rachet to stop it returning in after the spring pushes it out?? If so can i remove the main bolt holding the spring and be safe that the plunger would not move back? If not whats the rachet doing? If thats possible and nothing moves back could I try to push it out a click or 2 without danger and replace the bolt and spring. I'm just thinking out loud because otherwise I'm stumped to the reason for the rachet! The cam sprockets will not slip a tooth but I understand if the chain goes slack gravity will maybe drop it off the crank sprocket and when tension returned could move a tooth or 2....any thought's O wise ones.(read old)
I'm trying to stay away from the stealer's!! and before I refit the can and fry my ecu with tuneecu I've got some slight noise that I need to know is ok. I know its a noisey engine but my '02' S3 was silent in comparison Bloody Triumph's!!!
There is a small rachet mechanism which is sprung loaded. This stops the plunger from returning to it's off the production line setting, i.e when the chain, chain tensioner and blades are new. I tried the same idea on my adjuster. I removed the spring to see if the plunger would move any further in to tighten the chain but to no avail, it was solid. You can do the job yourself as removing and fitting a new adjuster is reletively simple. You will have to tension the cam chain unless you want to run the risk of dropping it off the crank sprocket and the potential bill that might follow. The easiest way it to remove the clutch cover, put some tension into the cam chaim, replace the old tensioner, and reassemble the clutch cover. Doing this also gives you the opertunity to have a look at the tensioner blades and chain. Mine were okay and mines done 27k so unless you have been around the world yours should be okay. Just to give you an idea on price, the tensioner is £90 from Webbs. The part number is PFKL1197837 but this could be the old number as the part has been superceeded, have a look here http://www.worldoftriumph.com/triumph_mo... One last thing, when you remove the spring just measure it, it should be 74mm (ish) long, but i bet yours is under 70mm.
Stimo21, I guess my question is did you take the slack as a precaution just to check if the plunger would push out, I know changing the whole unit would mean taking up the slack but if its a rachet surely you can remove bolt and spring and plunger stays where it is??
Oh yes Soapy, valves are the only thing I don't like tight....
Hello, no i didn't take up any slack when i initially tried the plunger. As i was trying to push the plunger inwards, toward the cam chain, there is no way that the plunger can retract backwards to it's factory setting. The plunger has a small sprung loaded, finger like mechanism which engages preventing it from returning so i knew i was safe. You only need to tension the cam chain if you remove the tensioner completely
Quote: remember............ noisy valves are happy valves.
Remind me to not let you service my bike
Please forgive me if I'm wrong here, it's been a few years since I stripped a daytona engine and I've one a few others (japs) since, but I thought you could LOCK the tensioner slider prior to removal/assembly with a small grubscrew. I don't remember having issues removing or re-assembling the tensioner the last time I did my valve clearances.
I was also unaware of any spring upgrades available, as I've not heard of many (if any) failures!
As already mentioned I would definitely recommend trying some different tunes using Tune ECU. The Massive Midrange ones give great performance but the fuel consumption (and stink of petrol around the bike) may be a problem ;-) I had the Maximum Stock Performance tune in my 2002 DSSA and found it a good compromise (high level aftermarket exhaust with baffle in and standard air filter). My Daytona was ridiculously fast but the big problem I had with it was that due to the amazing aerodynamics it FELT relatively slow (mind you I am 5 foot 6 and 11 stone). I recently switched to a Tuono and have to say that 120mph on the Daytona felt like 80mph does on the Tuono so maybe a large part of the difference you are noticing is due to the fairing ?
Rattle could be clutch (even though it sounds like tappets) get a screwdriver on it and see if you can pin the noise down.
Get a decent tune in it cos the Triumph ones are s!$%e at the best of times. With a decent tune and a exhaust system I got 136 RWHP from a standard engine.
Could be a dodgy TPS, tuneecu will show that as well as allow you change maps. Also could be a dodgy CPS thats going west.....
X-Man: Rattle could be clutch (even though it sounds like tappets) get a screwdriver on it and see if you can pin the noise down.
Get a decent tune in it cos the Triumph ones are s!$%e at the best of times. With a decent tune and a exhaust system I got 136 RWHP from a standard engine.
Could be a dodgy TPS, tuneecu will show that as well as allow you change maps. Also could be a dodgy CPS thats going west.....
I've had my listening stick on it, well top end and not got anything that makes me think OOH Noisey! And give it a service plugs,filters, oil and put my standard exhaust back on and its running and pulling better if a little quiet I've got the usual clutch noise pull lever in goes quiet, listening at tick over. But just got a ta ta ta ta ta I hear on tick over sometimes and equal load cruise revs and on overrun. Ruled out cam chain,quiet that end of engine. When riding I'd guess its coming from top left area. Not been near it in a week so the saga continues....
D4444: As already mentioned I would definitely recommend trying some different tunes using Tune ECU. The Massive Midrange ones give great performance but the fuel consumption (and stink of petrol around the bike) may be a problem ;-) I had the Maximum Stock Performance tune in my 2002 DSSA and found it a good compromise (high level aftermarket exhaust with baffle in and standard air filter). My Daytona was ridiculously fast but the big problem I had with it was that due to the amazing aerodynamics it FELT relatively slow (mind you I am 5 foot 6 and 11 stone). I recently switched to a Tuono and have to say that 120mph on the Daytona felt like 80mph does on the Tuono so maybe a large part of the difference you are noticing is due to the fairing ?
I get the faired, unfaired opinion but, it was my arse dyno !! It was salad verses meat and 2 veg not the dressing! And come on no triumph is ridiculously fast
but not sure if its mapped right for the can. but it still seems like there's something amiss even if its in standard tune with the can. I hope someone has some tips or ideas and you can understand all my rantings.....now secondly, are you all comfy? Think its a bit tappety too,or hopefully not cam chain,guide or tensioner noise it seems to be coming from the left of engine when riding, equal load revs and overrun. Coming from my Speedy I was ready for a great midrange and a cheeky top end but its all far too tame thats why I think Ive got problems. Thank you!!
) since, but I thought you could LOCK the tensioner slider prior to removal/assembly with a small grubscrew. 
I've got the usual clutch noise pull lever in goes quiet, listening at tick over. But just got a ta ta ta ta ta I hear on tick over sometimes and equal load cruise revs and on overrun. Ruled out cam chain,quiet that end of engine. When riding I'd guess its coming from top left area. Not been near it in a week so the saga continues....