Have recently bought a 2001 955i S3 which, although it runs very well, there is no evidence of the 24K service in the documentation that came with it (done 29K now). How difficult is the valve check/shim replace procedure? I've set them before on my previous bike, a ZZ-R1100, the biggest phaff was getting all the bodywork & other engine stuff out of the way first. I've had two quotes from Dealers - "budget £500" was On Yer Triumph, Aylesbury's quote, & £636 from Flitwick Motorcycles, Beds. F me. I don't think so... Any heads-up on anything to be wary of when doing it myself much appreciated
Thanks guys.
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It's easy to check them, it's not that hard to change them either especially on the early bikes you can use the valve tool, the later ones you need to pop the cams
I was kind of worried that it would be a difficult job, but it's really not bad. The hardest part is stripping it down to get access. Just get some good picks to pop out the shims. I had a couple that were a bastard to pop free. Here is a really good shim calculator that I used. http://www.westsideridaz.com/ValveCleara... Good luck!
Ben: I was kind of worried that it would be a difficult job, but it's really not bad. The hardest part is stripping it down to get access. Just get some good picks to pop out the shims. I had a couple that were a bastard to pop free. Here is a really good shim calculator that I used. http://www.westsideridaz.com/ValveCleara... Good luck!
I did mine recently, my 2006 engine might be later than yours and so I have bucket over shim valves. Your engine might have the shim over bucket valves which are easier to remove, see below with the details of a guy who made a tool for me to suit the earlier engine, didn't need it for mine as mine had the later cam cover, so someone else here bought the tool off of me
Here's the thread for the work I did. I also used a Haynes manual, which sometimes was as clear as mud!
Additional tools that I didn't have that I felt I needed to do a proper job so I bought them to do this valve shim measurement
mm feeler gauge with 0.004 - 0.009mm feeler strips (12 quid) 5-25 Nm torque wrench - bought a Teng Tools wrench for 30 quid, both new off of fleaBay
I didn't need to buy a micrometer because the valves were all well within spec and closely matched so I didn't need to change the shims, but measure all the valve shim gaps in situ about three times so that you get a 'feel' for the the feeler gauge and what is a tight fit and what is loose fit for your feeler gauge, before you start to think about changing the shims.
Take your time, don't rush it, it takes quite a few hours, when you get the cam cover off, watch out for the three locating dowels attached to the cam cover, don't drop them into the valve gear and above all, cleanliness is key as any dust or grit is your enemy with the cam cover off. Use kitchen paper towels to block up the butterfly valves on the air intake too. Remove the timing cover and turn the engine over with the plugs removed with an 8mm allen key, preferably with a fixed Tommy Bar as you'll need to turn the engine little tiny bits in both directions to reach TDC etc.
I already change my own ECU maps so I had the TuneECU ODBC cable and software to reset the TPS and I had already bought a Carbtune device to check the Throttle bodies, but they were all in spec.
I changed the IACV vacuum hoses for 6 mm internal diameter silicon hose (1 metre length from fleaBay) for a few quid and I also changed the the spark plugs for Iridium ones and put in a new air and oil filter, but I was doing a 24,000 mile service, yours may already have recent newly fitted plugs/air filter done at 24K miles
This is the guy Darren Yorwerth (loseweightwales@gmail.com) who made me a fabulous valve guide tool to remove the shims, trouble was the tool was for pre 2002 shim over bucket engines and I didn't need it for my bike as mine is the newer engine that uses cam covers and has bucket over shim valves. If you have the earlier engine, this will save you an awful lot of hassle getting the shims out. With my engine, you had to get the cams out to get to the shims, mine were all in spec so I didn't bother as I didn't want the hassle of removing cam chains and getting them lined up.
> Hi mate, > Lyn gave me your e-mail address to send you a pic of the valve tool your after. > Is this your paypal address, so I can send you an invoice if you want one ? > £30 inc postage > Thanks Darren
Excel spreadsheet format so can save a new tab for each service
* records all shim sizes installed * records spare shims in the toolbox * can select a target clearance (eg may want to go towards loose or tight end of specified clearance) * calculates ideal shim, specify actual shim and it calculates estimated clearance * prepares a shopping list of shims to get or swap
