Anyone know the torque value for the cap head screws holding the brake caliper halves together on my 1999 Speed Trip? They're currently apart, new seals installed, spanky-clean pistons installed, just waiting to be nailed together again...
Advertisement Remove adverts by upgrading to a premier account
Alas the Triumph Service Manual states 'WARNING: Do not attempt to split the two halves of the caliper. A dangerous riding condition leading to an accident could occur if this warning is ignored.' This warning also applies to the 2002 Speed Triple & 2005 1050 Speed Triple however for the 2007 1050 Tiger it was deemed acceptable to split the calipers. Using the 2007 Tiger as a guide only (still uses Nissin calipers same as 1050 Speed Triple but different to 1999 Speed Triple), new bolts are required with threadlock & torqued to 24Nm. But as you aren't supposed to split the calipers, new bolts for the 1999 Speed Triple will probably not be available unless they are similar to later models & I wouldn't use any old bolts for the brakes as they will be a high tensile grade.
..i wouldnt have thought so as the are going into a soft alloy casting anyway... unlike the ones thaat hold the calipers to the forks (these are high tensile as they take the load ) ...stainless would be fine and shiny....bit o' copperslip on the threads and job jobbed.....
bikecat: ..i wouldnt have thought so as the are going into a soft alloy casting anyway... unlike the ones thaat hold the calipers to the forks (these are high tensile as they take the load ) ...stainless would be fine and shiny....bit o' copperslip on the threads and job jobbed.....
The fasteners holding the two parts of the caliper together are grade 10.9 on my Speed Triple which is significantly stronger than stainless. No doubt they are overengineered but personally I wouldn't risk anything with a lower tensile strength.
you are correct in what you say and it's probably best to err on the side of caution but i've used stainless bolts for this application myself with no problems.
however the bolts triumph use seem to be of a decent quality finish wise (on my t509 anyways)..so in this case i would probably consider reusing the originals with a dab of loctite.
bikecat: you are correct in what you say and it's probably best to err on the side of caution but i've used stainless bolts for this application myself with no problems.
however the bolts triumph use seem to be of a decent quality finish wise (on my t509 anyways)..so in this case i would probably consider reusing the originals with a dab of loctite.
bikecat: you are correct in what you say and it's probably best to err on the side of caution but i've used stainless bolts for this application myself with no problems.
however the bolts triumph use seem to be of a decent quality finish wise (on my t509 anyways)..so in this case i would probably consider reusing the originals with a dab of loctite.
I agree. Honda spec somewhat cheaper bolts, though.
Thanks all. The calipers were apart before I read any warnings. Firstly, I didn't know the pistons would come out without splitting them, though given the trouble I had getting them out, I don't think I could have done it without doing so. Secondly, Sprint Manufacturing's website, where I bought the replacement piston seal sets, says "The joint seals on the 2 halves are not supplied and are reused."
Triple X: Alas the Triumph Service Manual states 'WARNING: Do not attempt to split the two halves of the caliper. A dangerous riding condition leading to an accident could occur if this warning is ignored.' This warning also applies to the 2002 Speed Triple & 2005 1050 Speed Triple however for the 2007 1050 Tiger it was deemed acceptable to split the calipers. Using the 2007 Tiger as a guide only (still uses Nissin calipers same as 1050 Speed Triple but different to 1999 Speed Triple), new bolts are required with threadlock & torqued to 24Nm. But as you aren't supposed to split the calipers, new bolts for the 1999 Speed Triple will probably not be available unless they are similar to later models & I wouldn't use any old bolts for the brakes as they will be a high tensile grade.
Always remember that the manufacturer (or dealer) will be trying the best they can to cover their arses against any ham-fistedness on your side ....... therefore by informing you not to do it Triumph have removed any liability if you decide to ignore their warning. However warning you not to do it doesn't mean that it cannot be done.
Agree that the bolts joining the 2 halves of the caliper together should be Loctited before being tightened to 24Nm. You do not want them vibrating loose under any circumstances.
And FWIW I wouldn't consider using stainless steel bolts of any grade in this application either.
Used Stainless steel caliper bolts for years, never used Loctite or a Torque Wrench, my current steed has a set of bolts in Stainless from Inox, its a myth you cannot use stainless
ChazzyB: Thanks all. The calipers were apart before I read any warnings. Firstly, I didn't know the pistons would come out without splitting them, though given the trouble I had getting them out, I don't think I could have done it without doing so.
I did the same thing myself, after chatting with a Honda dealer, who when shown the (Triumph) calipers just advised me to split them and re-use the bolts. He said they did this with Nissin calipers all the time. So am I gonna die soon?
I split my Nissins on my T509 when I rebuilt them and used stainless bolts - had no problems. It takes a hell of a lot of force to snap a bolt that size, and certainly more than they'll ever be subjected to in the application of joining two caliper halves.
The usual reason against stainless bolt in brake applications is that the threads will stretch, or something? I don't see it as a problem since most of us will only open calipers up once every, what?, 3-5 years or so? And only then if we really have to!
No problems in using Stainless bolts, but I would be specifying A4 standard as against A2 standard. The reason is A2 over time in a salt rich environment (our roads most of the year) become brittle. Also for a little extra in cost from a decent bolts supplier you can find high tensile Stainless bolts.
a_morti: The usual reason against stainless bolt in brake applications is that the threads will stretch, or something? I don't see it as a problem since most of us will only open calipers up once every, what?, 3-5 years or so? And only then if we really have to!
Stainless into alloy will result in an electrolytic corrosion reaction in our damp UK climate, whether you take the bike out on wet/salted roads or not. That could make the bolt impossible to remove without damaging the thread in the alloy. As Bill says above, anyone using stainless in this type of application should use grade A4 bolts. The general run-of-the-mill bolts around are usually grade A2.
Also to avoid the problem of electrolytic corrosion the thread needs some type of anti-seize compound on it. That being the case you need to reduce the applied torque on the bolts by between 30-50% depending what type of anti-sieze you're using, otherwise you will rip the thread out of the alloy.
Firstly, I didn't know the pistons would come out without splitting them, though given the trouble I had getting them out, I don't think I could have done it without doing so. Secondly, Sprint Manufacturing's website, where I bought the replacement piston seal sets, says "The joint seals on the 2 halves are not supplied and are reused."
