S'all money Dan. The ST lights are on standard brackets so by the time it gets a cockpit fairing /flyscreen it'll be no different to a street nose. If I was to put any other lamp on here it would be something like a mt03 or ktm rc8 or something similar but money is tight now i'm out of work so unless I sell the Tona (which I don' really want to do) I cant afford much else than what I have here now.
Standing still ATM. Busy moving house. Done a little fabrication, and left it with a pro welding shop to finish up the welds I had done earlier. I`ve said they can keep it for a couple of weeks while I`m moving. When I get it back it`ll be going into its new workshop/home
Removed the seat subframe for welding and shortened the swingarm bearing housing which retains the dog bones bolt. Little bit of welding just to finish the mods and the complete back end is finished (oh, unless I win the Z1000 hugger on ebay tonight.lol)
At some point I need to make a shorter pair of dog bones as well to raise the back end a little.
Removed my subby and took it down my m8's to get the alloy welding sorted. Got home and it had pulled a little so got it twisted back in line, then gave it a coat or PJ1 satin after linishing back the welds where you can see them then fitted it.
Like a s!$% hole at the moment Tim. Need to go through what's staying and what's going fella. Stuff everywhere. What's going on the geep, what's being sold off the geep and the Triumph stuff including the broken engine.
Nah, a one off from Talon. They only usually do a max of 48 tooth for the ZX9 but for some reason when I rang asking for a 52 for my project, amazingly they had one sitting on the shelf which even surprised the guy at Talon.
With the gearing calculator I have, I found that going down from a 130/80/18 to a 180/55/17 is pretty much the same as going up 3 teeth at the rear (or one down at the front) but I could only source a 17 tooth front sprocket from a ZZR1100C to get my chain run straight due to the wider arm and wheel which means an equivalent of going back down 3 teeth at the rear. To fit 17/49 gearing to the Geep with the 17inch rear would be the same as the 750 with standard 16/49 gearing but I have gone up to a 52 rear which is the same as going back down 1 tooth at the front sprocket. (still keeping up at the back of the class?) so it should be sprightly although I will loose around 7mph at the top end but gain in acceleration right through the rev range and make wheelies a lot easier.
Been stripping down and cleaning my £3 ebay special rear caliper. Plenty of plus gas and the jobs a good un. Just ordered my caliper seal kit at £5.94 and new rear pads at £11.75 delivered. Cheap rear brake it seems, not bad all in for just about £20 Wonder if I can find a rear wavy disc for a tenner.
Right got me new seals today so just waiting on the HH pads so got on with refurbing the rear caliper. Dug out my pot of Castrol Red Rubber Grease (amazing stuff for brake rebuilds) and after painting the parts earlier on I started reassembly. Pity I could only find blue caliper paint in the garage, I wanted gold. Never mind.
New seals fitted and coated with red rubber grease then pushed the piston in by hand, some more grease on the sliders and refitted the rubber sleeves over the sliders then refitted the retaining pin for the pads.
Then went and found a 2 pot rear caliper of the spare single side Triumph arm I have here is a direct replacement apart from re drilling the fixing holes in the caliper mount. Doh, should have rebuilt them. Ah well, they can wait till the winter rebuild lol.
Well I'm still trying to source calipers but in the meantime I thought I'd make a start trying to design some sort of linear to radial caliper converters to mount the set of Gixer 600 radials I have in the garage. Here's my 1st attempt.
Gotta cut the second one out tomorrow and get it to my m8 to get machined out of ally or maybe even stainless now I have it mounted where it needs to be, I don't think MDF is strong enough..
Just been down to see another m8 who works in an aerospace company who specialises in manufacturing parts for the aviation industry and he is getting me a large billet or aircraft quality aluminium tomorrow which will be enough to make 2. Real pleased.
Done a little more today, cut both left and right hand ones and drilled all holes. Fitted up the left hand side one to check it's ok and left all items with my m8. He is now gonna make a prototype from nylon to test fit and verify the cnc program is correct then once proven he will make a few sets up.
Can't wait, should look good in polished alloy. He'll probably be end up selling sets for around £80 a pair.
Not that expensive I suppose at £40 each for the amount of work and alloy in them and with the bling factor I reckon he'll shift a few. Should fit a few different bikes as well.
Decided as I need to get new bearings before refitting the swingarm that I would make a start on the body work today.
DA'd off the tank and seat side panels, then found I had a pin hole at the front of the tank. Pressure washed inside the tank after removing all fuel tank gubbins then proceeded to weld the tank.
Got that done and water tight then noticed a small rust patch along the bottom of the tank, this turned into a hole about 8mm wide by 15mm long so cut a bit of plate and welded that in. Thats when the grief started.
I was then chasing paper thin holes around the corner of the tank for the next hour and a half.. Everytime I ground back the weld it would start weeping again in another place. Finally finished but there is a micro weep which pissed me off so I called that a day.
Does anyone know of a product which will seal this weep (and it really is a micro weep not a drip)?
Decided to break out my new spray gun and gun some paint on the remainder of the tank to get the bare metal covered and the side panels then flat it back to await the top coat. (I still need to revisit the weep before the top coat)
Thinking that myself today, I have glacier white here and graphite grey, so thinking of graphite with a shelby stripe but one which ends before each end of the panels and is sort of framed with the pin stripe, or maybe white with a graphite stripe. Don't know yet.
Dan The Man: In a tub of water? Possibly. I`ll visit the chopper sites and ask for the alternatives before going ahead.
BTW, the contours of your tank could make for some seriously cool paint jobs
I'll second that, My Geep 9 was Black/Green alternate 'tank panel areas', if you get my drift with gold pinstriping, as was the top half fairing, then I matt blacked my Sebring Pipe BUT found a very cool and experimental workshop in Manck-chester of all places who somehow 'heat sprayed' the silencer to match the dark green of the Tank...
Seat was recovered in Dark green, had a very Olde England Dragonish look to it...( no there were NO actual Dragons on there, not into over the top displays of................)
Wish I had some piccys to hand, haveta see if I can dig any up