Anyone any good at photoshop. Just done a little recolour on GIMP but for some reason it wont let me recolour black or white. Anyone fancy changing the black to metallic grey and the white to the same blue?
Well, I butchered, ahem I mean cut the ZX9 arm today and believe it or not, the sleeve from inside the GPZ arm is a perfect fit inside the ZX9 sleeve, I just have to cut the 9 sleeve down as there is now a mahoosive gap where once there was alloy.
I have also cut 55mm out of the seat subframe so it just needs welding back together.
Also got the number of a alloy welding bloke who does repairs on alloy wheels and his work is apparently amazing. Spoke to him earlier and I have to pop down to see him tomorrow.
I didn't like the fact the arm wasn't quite central so I took a 5mm sliver off the other side to allow the arm to move over enough to get it in the middle and hacked a bigger lump of alloy out of the shock pocket which is gonna be plated anyway.
Well as the rear end is a fair bit wider, the chain run is going to be way off so after checking out the JT website after some advice on GPZZONE I found that the splines of the GPZ are the same as a ZZR1100C or ZX11C (in the US) but the offset is around 24mm (around 15mm more than the gpz one) the only problem is they only come in a 17 tooth not the required 16 I would like to change the final ratio gearing. Anyway my sprocket has arrived so I removed the old one earlier and fitted the ZZR one in readiness for a new chain when the swinger is fitted.
Nah fella, just the standard 750R engine. Should be ok as I have shed around 20-30kg with all the s!$%e heavyweight wheels/tires, /fairings, subframe and replaced with alloy subframe and minimal bodywork and lightweight yokes (in comparison the the geep stuff) and lighter wheels and tires. Heaviest thing on the bike is going to be the underseat Triumph cans IF I fit them.It should also steer quicker (less unsprung weight).
Thanks Dan. Only problem is with a 17T front I will have to get a custom sprocket for the rear. Up from a ZX9 standard 44 tooth rear to something like a custom 49 tooth which will pretty much give me standard geep gearing or up to a custom Renthal 52 rear, which will equate to the equivalent of dropping a standard geep down one at the front.
Also with the reduced front end weight it should be exciting up to a ton. (That should read "wheelie like a bastard")
Wheels are 2002 ZX6R J1/J2 and rear is 5.5 inch 1996-97 ZX9R-B. The biggest upside to this is modern rubber and lighter wheels/tire carcass.
Mucking about with frames/swingarms/wheels creates all sorts of problems with offset and alignment. Easy enough to sort on an old rigid Triumph. Must be a nightmare on a more modern bike.....
exuptoy: Thanks Dan. Only problem is with a 17T front I will have to get a custom sprocket for the rear. Up from a ZX9 standard 44 tooth rear to something like a custom 49 tooth which will pretty much give me standard geep gearing or up to a custom Renthal 52 rear, which will equate to the equivalent of dropping a standard geep down one at the front.
Also with the reduced front end weight it should be exciting up to a ton. (That should read "wheelie like a bastard")
Wheels are 2002 ZX6R J1/J2 and rear is 5.5 inch 1996-97 ZX9R-B. The biggest upside to this is modern rubber and lighter wheels/tire carcass.
Whats up WTF not jealous are we.
Well now that you mention it you do seem very keep to make a good impression on Dogs Tails Minging
I was contemplating sticking the ZX9 wheel in the Geep swingarm but that would have entailed milling the sprocket carrier/cush, then still changing the sprocket and then manufacturing a brake mount for a different caliper. The most common conversion for the geep is to fit the ZZR1100C swingarm and just make up 2 spacers for the spindle but the nicest looking arm is the ZX9B one and I got it complete with wheel/tire/disc/sprocket/cush/brake caliper carrier/spindle off ebay for the princely sum of £37.
Yeah Tim. I need to see how mine turn out first. He is a little concerned on the strength with it being a critical satey item, ie brakes.
They are a while off they as I need to make a buck of the shape in nylon or mdf to allow me to bolt on the caliper then he will replicate it in alloy (or maybe stainless but I think that may be heavy).
It seems that they are out there tho (see below). The K-factory ones in the pic above work out at around £280 for the pair. Darren will be cheaper tho lol.
Did a bit of photoshop faking last night, as I am waiting for my new spacers, I shortened the tail, shopped the swingarm and (unsuccessfully) painted the tail I think the wheel is to far back as I had to manipulate the cut/pastes to get it to fit. Still not sure I like the exhuasts.
No the zorsts have to go How about a single silencer under the seat? Or something like on the bike in your pic above? The line from the top of the tank and over the pillion seat is just about perfect
Thanks for the feedback Dan, thinking along the same lines myself. I like the idea of a lot of room between the wheel and seat and because of the thin back end I reckon it'll look well with a single can.
My rearsets arrived today. Don't know if I'll deffo use them yet, it all depends how it all comes together like if the master cylinder centres will be ok etc but for £26 plus £16 delivery from Hong Kong they look alright. although I will have to use an inline pressure brake switch because there's no provision for the return spring and the mount. We'ee see.
Also the spacer for one side of the arm is complete and when I took over the arm and the subby to show the lads the quality of welding they offered to make me a pair of one piece billet brackets to weld to the subby. Result!
Now I intended to use the ebay rearsets I purchased. The original gearchange actuator rod which actuates the top of the splined linkage fitted to the gearchange input shaft, from the top of the lever, whereas the new rearset gearlever has the link rod fitted to the underside of the rearset lever so I had to modify the splined linkage with maybe a longer piece of metal and turn it upside down to get the same shift pattern. I tried a dogleg one from the old worn Daytona linkage I had lying in the garage and it fitted. Wahay!
The rearsets look good but the only issue I have is the fact these items seem to be made of soft cheese so I may have to get one or two parts remade in thicker alloy. Please be aware of this if you are thinking of purchasing them, they are made of soft alloy and I reckon the will bend in constant use. I also need to shorten the link rod so the shift actuator is straight down to allow full movement.
I won a ZX9 rear shock then lost it because the suppliers have had a warehouse fire due to arson. So I have had to buy another. I have also won an R1 exhaust and link pipe but this will need modifying to fit.
Nah m8, side mount. It is the standard one, so it will be chopped down and de-cored once the pipework has been modified to fit. I need to get it first to see how much work is required but for £30 I can't complain too much.
I also had a few new goodies arrive this morning. The dogleg gearlever for the Tona arrived and a pair of these for the Geep. It's gonna be more Triumph than Kawi at this rate.
Got the subby back on into the position where the upper mount will be welded and fitted the seat. It does look quite high and it does seem to tip you forward a little but the position with the wide bars and the footrest position seems spot on. Even though I am a short arse (5'7" ish) I can still get both feet down, not flat but no worse than my m8's R6 or my old Mille-R. So I suppose the seat height is around 820-830mm. It's also a much more comfortable bike now. Still waiting on the upper mounts to be finished and just had the last spacer for the swingarm so I can finalise the arm tomorrow.
) I can still get both feet down, not flat but no worse than my m8's R6 or my old Mille-R. So I suppose the seat height is around 820-830mm. It's also a much more comfortable bike now. 
