Removed the forks and replaced with some more modern kit. They have bolted straight in but I think I may need to swap out the bearings for new but I cannot believe that Kawasaki are still using the same bearings on a 2000 ZX6 as they did on an 87 GPZ Get some fresh bearings now, then some fat bars and risers. Then some calipers and a mudguard.
Nah m8, not until 2003. Only cost me £52 tho for the full front end. If I keep it long term I may still go to USD but at least for now it has usable rubber on it ie. 17inch which will do until it gets it's MOT.
When I finish the front end then I gotta see if my m8 can modify the ZX9 rear end I have here. Big job tho, not just a straight swap because Kawasaki saw fit use use the engine as part of the frame as a stressed member so the swinger has a bit bit missing in the middle which I have to replicate on the ZX9 back end.
Just been trawling the bay and noticed the top yoke is the same as the 2000-2001 ones with the K badge on it so this is probably a better quality later front end than I thought anyway, also it has to be better than the anti-dive s!$%e that the big K fitted to the Geep's
I was incorrect regarding the bearings and the lower bearing and upper are actually different although the upper bearing can be used. Therefore I removed the top yoke and my m8 machined the stem so I can use standard GPZ bearings and faced off the yoke to allow the bearing to seat properly and also so I can use the GPZ rubber dust/water seal because the ZX6 bearing was full of rust. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ex...http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ex...
Right then time for a little abuse.
I decided to see what the Street arse end would look like and here is the result, it also means that with the underseat cans, I should be able to see that gorgeous ZX9 swingarm when it is done. All I need to do to get the back end right is make 2 small brackets for the upper subframe mount and shorten the lower one by around 70mm so the seat/tank interface is better.
Front mudguard and rearsets are on their way and the lower fairings are going to make way for a ZRX bellypan.
Anyone have a street seat cowl they want to shift, drop me a line.
What is the general opinion then? Who likes is and who hates it?
i dont think the roundedness of the rear end goes with the stealthy looking front end.. cant you junk the tank and fairing and fit something. more rounded,, i used to have a gpz 750 turbo. its had a jmc braced swingarm in it that would look good in your bike. obviusly jmc make one for it. maybe keep an eye out for one. and my gpz just had a small nose cone on.. it looked quite good.
The rear arm is gonna be this baby below. The lower fairings are going Stu but I want to keep the GPZ nose to keep it's identity. I like it. Who knows I may even fit the Speed triple lights and brackets I have here. lol I reckon this back end looks hard as f!$% and so much beefier than the GPZ one. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ex...
Nah it don't Tim, I need to retain some of its origins. Besides I like the Geep front end so the tank will blend it in ok. Just wait until the paint job is done, it will look sweet. Got my front ZX6 mudguard today which decided its final look. Loads to do first tho.
Just got my front mudguard is the ZX6 metallic blue colour, so the red in the tank and top fairing is going blue then the black is going the metallic grey which is in the fork shrouds fitted to the mudguard then the silver stripe is goin white so it will have a feel of the ZRX colours. I quite lke the ZRX top fairing tho.
Used the bearing press tool to insert the taper shells and fit my new bearings. Found my stem was too short to safely bolt up the forks (couldn't fit the lock washer), so removed them and gave the yokes back to my m8 to modify the stem again.
Decided to remove the bars and risers off the hayabusa front end to use on the Geep then drilled and fitted them to the ZX6 top yoke. Without the forks fitted I decided to use the bearing tool to centralise the yoke to use it to set up the GPZ controls. (Had to redrill the bars for the dimple in the hand controls). Also managed to re-use the GPZ ignition lock after trimming the ZX6 yoke.
Just waiting fo my m8 to modify the stem tomorrow and the front end should be finished. Then I can start the back end. Media FileMedia File Media FileMedia File
I have to cut around 70-75mm out of the lower subframe tubes and get them rewelded. That and the swingarm mod (oh yeah and the link pipe) are about the biggest jobs I have left.
I found my ZZR1100C front sprocket on ebay today (24mm offset to allow the chain run from the ZX9 arm to run straight, I need a custom rear sprocket next to get the gear ratio's right. Might need either 16/49 or 17/52 so it'll have to be a custom one as the ZZR1100c sprox are only available in 17T.
The tank is going to get painted to match the mudguard paint anyway so it doesn't matter, if it doesn't then fit then I will just either plate it (I have welded a car petrol tank before) or fibreglass the back edge into shape.
The whole subframe is being shortened Stu to fetch it forward into the tank. Should visually shorten the bike as well. Keeping the belly pan frame for now as I will have something to fix the ZRX one to hopefully.
I need to find someone reliable (and good) to weld Ali now.
Seat can stay full length as it's only the lower tube which is too long.
at the front of the seat. them big lapel collor looking bits that wrap around the tank. take the seat cover off at the front. and trim them collers back to the same profile as the geep tank. then pull the cover back over and re staple it. just a suggestion.
Take a look at the street triple, the seat overlaps the tank. I reckon it will look ok when it's moved up to the tank. If not then I'll review it then. Thanks for the input guys. I am really enjoying doing this bike.
Who the F: Can't you post something interesting - like paint drying or something
Not that I have massive amounts of either, but a little progress is however still progress.
) or fibreglass the back edge into shape.
