Just been to post office depot (lazy c!$% postie just posted a card, couldn't be bothered actually carrying the parcel to the door, or ringing the doorbell), to collect one of these (and a Suzuki version too):
Captain StripleR: Just been to post office depot (lazy c!$% postie just posted a card, couldn't be bothered actually carrying the parcel to the door, or ringing the doorbell), to collect one of these (and a Suzuki version too):
Captain StripleR: For the sake of twenty quid for a beautifully machined one it's not worth f!$%ing about.
True enough - at the time I needed these (they fit Honda and Suzuki swingarm pivot adjusters) - I couldn't find a commercial alternative, other than from Honda/Suzuki (silly money), plus, you need ideally to have a counterholding tool through the centre while you torque the adjuster locknut. Lot of work, but satisfying, given that they fit perfectly.
Captain StripleR: For the sake of twenty quid for a beautifully machined one it's not worth f!$%ing about.
True enough - at the time I needed these (they fit Honda and Suzuki swingarm pivot adjusters) - I couldn't find a commercial alternative, other than from Honda/Suzuki (silly money), plus, you need ideally to have a counterholding tool through the centre while you torque the adjuster locknut. Lot of work, but satisfying, given that they fit perfectly.
Took it out for a good run. On the way back it started playing up. Started with a huge backfire and the EML coming on the dash. Then started doing it more regularly, a big cough then the light then back off. It seemed to me to be a coil or plug breaking down but I did question whether the battery may have been an issue as it seems not to want to start with the lights on. Got it home with this continuous issue and pulled off the seat and found the pos battery terminal loose. Tune ECU gave 2 fault codes, fuel pump default, and fuel relay so it would seem that it was just a loss of power to the ECU when it was moving around. Been back out and it seems to be solved.
well i took mine for a run, topped off the tank with fuel, came back and started work
dropped oil n filter left ti to drain
removed belly pan and started to clean headers with brick acid
removed front calipers ready to strip clean grease them, fitted new pads and flushed through with clean brake fluid.
refilled bike with oil never takes as much as it seems lol, and dip sticks are a lot harder than a sight glass lol
took off rear wheel and found the rear brake to be in a hanging state so stripped and cleaned that cleaned pads as they were ok, greased piston after a good cleaned rebuilt and flushed new fluid through.
them got the autosol out polished the headers a bit got bored and refitted the belly pan back on.
took bike out for a quick spin and omg my brakes were s!$%e before now i can 2 finger brake and almost pull a rolling stoppie, best not grab in a hurry tomorrow
all in alll a thoroughly good day.
except i get getting called by exup when my hands were filthy mid caliper rebuild
gonna enjoy riding it tomorrow up to llangollen might even take a few pictures
fitted bagster tank cover so i could use me tank bag tommorrow
Captain StripleR: For the sake of twenty quid for a beautifully machined one it's not worth f!$%ing about.
True enough - at the time I needed these (they fit Honda and Suzuki swingarm pivot adjusters) - I couldn't find a commercial alternative, other than from Honda/Suzuki (silly money), plus, you need ideally to have a counterholding tool through the centre while you torque the adjuster locknut. Lot of work, but satisfying, given that they fit perfectly.
Yup, that's the one - pity it wasn't around at the time! Mind you, mine cost nought, and, as I said, there's satisfaction in making something that works.
It might've been, maybe you just didn't find them, lol
He does tools for loads of bikes, and no doubt could replicate any others if you had an original to lend him. I'm properly impressed with these two, I would've been happy with the ones in his pics, but these are much nicer, and less than half the price of the Triumph tool.
Got the bike out today with the sole intention of setting up the suspension as it was wallowing like a bastard on sweepers and is generally too soft for my liking. Anyway, I was riding it from the garage to the front of the house and heard a dragging noise from the rear caliper. Upon further inspection I found both rear pads down to the metal and the rear disc f!$%ed.. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ex... Stripped down the rear end and fitted my old spare rear disc from the Tona from when I upgraded to a wavy one. Had to pay a visit to my local Yamaha dealer who had a set of sintered rear goldfren pads and some dot4 fluid for £21. Result. Got the pistons cleaned and coated with red rubber grease. Picked up some Halfords Professional 3/8 drive hex bits (allen key type) while I was down there. I had a real struggle removing the pad pins and f!$%ed one up as it was bound tight. Found a spare here which although not quite the same length, it will be fine. Bled up the rear with fresh fluid and all is well with the world http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ex...
Decided to check the rebuilt suspension and found the rear compression wound right off to it's minimum 5 clicks (set it to 2), the rear rebound set at 0.5 turns now set to 1.5. The front preload was different on both forks (?), now set to 1.5 rings out from full in, rebound set to 2 may move it to 2.5 and compression set to 1.25, may set it to 1.5 tomorrow after another run. Already far far better than it was, and now I have some base settings to work from.
I may now pay a visit back to Ross at Pro-moto for a set up.
Why don't people leave things alone which they don't understand?
~EARL~: well i took mine for a run, topped off the tank with fuel, came back and started work
dropped oil n filter left ti to drain
removed belly pan and started to clean headers with brick acid
removed front calipers ready to strip clean grease them, fitted new pads and flushed through with clean brake fluid.
refilled bike with oil never takes as much as it seems lol, and dip sticks are a lot harder than a sight glass lol
took off rear wheel and found the rear brake to be in a hanging state so stripped and cleaned that cleaned pads as they were ok, greased piston after a good cleaned rebuilt and flushed new fluid through.
them got the autosol out polished the headers a bit got bored and refitted the belly pan back on.
took bike out for a quick spin and omg my brakes were s!$%e before now i can 2 finger brake and almost pull a rolling stoppie, best not grab in a hurry tomorrow
all in alll a thoroughly good day.
except i get getting called by exup when my hands were filthy mid caliper rebuild
gonna enjoy riding it tomorrow up to llangollen might even take a few pictures
fitted bagster tank cover so i could use me tank bag tommorrow
Someone's been a buzy bee
'05 1050's brakes are a pain, forever needing freeing off. I've actually took the dust seals out of mine to see if that stops the sticking piston problem (wouldn't recommend it for anyone who rides all year round though). I'll post up results when I get enough miles racked up to make an informed analysis as to wether it is worthwhile doing
got royally f*&£$d off by triumph germany for a warranty claim on a set of warrped brakes discs ( cause i never had the initial service by a triumph dealer) so wrote a snotty letter to triumph uk
Still have it Lyn, going to put it in the marketplace today I reckon They want stupid money for multibike insurance so it's not worth hanging on to. Unless I can find somewhere to store it of course.
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